Open 7 Days a Week

Review by
"South Florida Sun-Sentinel - Showtime" Jan 7, 2005

Good Indian restaurants aren't an everyday discovery in South Florida, so the arrival of Taj means more than just another spot for curries, vindaloos and a stack of crisp papadums to dip into fiery onion chutney.

This 2-month-old charmer,, with its softly lit atmosphere and booth-lined walls, instills the sense of quiet beauty one that silently pulsates with bright flavors. What separates Taj from the competition is its commendable expertise at tweaking wonderfully intense flavors.

And, for lovers of heat, Taj keeps its spicing promises. Even something ordered medium hot lingers on the throat. Extinguish the flames with orange sherbet-colored mango lassi ($2.95) or pick from a beer and wine list that appears to be a work in progress. Count on Indian brews -King Fisher and Maharaja ($3.95)-as well as a dozen or so wines selected to match thespic-ing complexity of the cuisine. You'll also enjoy service that's genuinely warm and, if you're a novice, enthusiastically helpful in explaining Indian food.

Each menu item is numbered for the convenience of those who are pronunciation-shy. On the other hand, aficionados will feel right at home browsing crimson-edged tandoori chicken, juicy seekh kebabs, intricately spiced feormos and fluffy biryanis. Vegetable samosas, which often fal victim to clumsy doughy experiences elsewhere, clearly put Taj ahead of the pack. This pastry is crackly thin and delicious, and the potato/pea filling is soothing, like great mashed potatoes, yet bursts with flavor. You get two per order for $2.95. Or, sample mem on the special appetizer platter ($8.95) along with excellent onion bhaji, meaty seekh kebabs and amazingly good paneer pakora - deep-fried Indian cheese coated in remarkably light chickpea batter.

Indian breads are cooked to order and a highlight of the cuisine. Orderplain naan ($1.95), or for $2.95 each, there's flaky onion/coriander stuffed kulcha or whole wheat paratha liberally brushed with ghee (clarified butter) between its multiple layers. To .make them, chef/owner Anoop Chopra steps up to the tandoor oven, places a flattened round of dough on a cloth puff and slaps it directly onto the inside wall. In less than a minute, they puff and blister, charring slightly and obtaining a pleasantly light smoky flavor along the way.

We used our kulcha to scrape the last luscious remnants of sauce draping shrimp shahi kor-ma ($15.95). Each rosy crustacean was ideally cooked in a cream-enhanced sauce. High-lights of slivered almonds and the musky sweetness of raisins took it to addictive heights. Boneless tandoori chicken takes nicely to an array of Indian spices, tomatoes, butter and cream for unusually good butter chicken.($15.95), a rich yet light house specialty. The house rogan josh ($12.95) will please lamb and curry lovers with its generous portion of meaty chunks cut from the leg and braised in curry sauce.

Vegetarian selections, always a strong suit in Indian restaurants, comprise 13 different options. There's fresh okra cooked with tomatoes and onions ($9.95), and malai kofta ($10.95), an intriguingly tasty mixture of potatoes and Indian-style cottage cheese stuffed with raisins in a creamy sauce with nutty undertones, thanks to the addition of a paste made from cashews and almonds. Dal makh-ni ($8.95) is a comforting Indian staple handled beautifully by this kitchen. This version uses both red and brown lentils spiked with fresh ginger and spices, stewed just to the point of melting down while still retaining character.

Like everything on the menu, Chopra makes desserts from scratch. For gulab jamun ($3.95) he uses milk powder, cream of wheat and abit of Bis-quick to produce cakelike balls. Doused in syrup splashed with rosewater essence, they boast a pleasant texture and slight sweetness. Kheer (rice pudding, $3.95) is richly infused with green cardamom and pistachios. It's a simple ending, yet one that surpassed my expectations with its finesse -just like the rest of the experience.

Please phone in advance to confirm information on hours, prices, menu items and facilities. For review consideration, please fax a current menu that includes name and address of restaurant to 954-356-4386 or send to- Sun-Sentinel, 200 E. Las Olas Blvd., Fort Lauderdale, FL 33301-2293.

If you would like to contact dining correspondent Judith Stocks, e-mail her at juditnstocksreviews@yahoo.com or write to her in care of the Sun-Sentinel.